When planning a workshop, keep in mind that if the space is not comfortable it is unlikely that much work will be done in it. For that reason, it’s important to remember heating as part of the workshop design. In addition, adequate ventilation is important from the standpoint of safety as well as creating a pleasant work environment.

Weather Stripping

Maintain a comfortable environment and save money by properly insulating the ceilings and walls in your workshop. It’s also helpful to install weather stripping around doors and windows.

Foam insulation stripping is easy to install around windows. Feel around the edges of the windows to determine whether there are drafty spots. If a draft is found, block it off with weather stripping. Simply clean the surface where the stripping is being installed, peel the paper backing and stick the stripping along the edge of the window.

Heaters

The most common way to heat a shop that’s not attached to a house is with a portable heater. These include radiant heat, electric, propane and kerosene heaters. Here are some options and some considerations:

Kerosene heaters

An advantage of heating with kerosene is that it is inexpensive and lasts a long time. Kerosene heaters are filled via a removable cap. Kerosene does put out an odor that some people find unpleasant. Also, kerosene heaters put out a moist heat, so this may not be the best choice if lumber is stored in the shop.

Propane heaters

The advantage of propane is convenience. These heaters use propane tanks that can be refilled or exchanged at propane stations almost anywhere — including many service stations and convenience stores. Propane tanks are easy to connect to heaters, but when attaching a propane tank, remember that the connection has a left-handed thread, which is opposite from most threaded connections. Propane heaters generally come in two types: ones that are separate from the tank, but connected with a hose, and ones that mount directly on the tank. The heaters that are separate tend to be more stable. Place a tank-mounted heater in a location where it’s not likely to get knocked over, particularly as the fuel begins to run out and the tank gets lighter.

Electric heaters

These heaters come in a number of types and sizes. Quartz-element heaters are a newer style and offer the convenience of a replaceable element. Wire-element heaters are another electric-heater option. Most are equipped with a blower to circulate the heat, so they heat a bigger space more rapidly. Ceramic-element heaters are very popular because they are compact, powerful and efficient. For any type of electric heater, keep the elements clean and free of dust or sawdust.

Ventilation

The easiest way to ventilate your workshop is with a fan; these come in a large array of styles and sizes. Industrial fans, which move large amounts of air, are good for a large space. Oscillating fans move back and forth to enhance circulation. Box fans are inexpensive and particularly handy for a workshop since they can easily be set in a window to bring in outside air, or turned around to draw out stale air.

For a more sophisticated approach, a more elaborate system can be installed using ductwork, air filters and an enclosed fan to move air and return filtered air into the workspace.

Radiant floor heating is a wonderfully efficient heat-distribution system that takes advantage of the whole floor to heat the home, as apposed to forced air coming out of one small vent and trying to heat a huge space.

How does radiant floor heating work?

This innovation in home heating provides warmth for a house from underneath the floors. It’s an effective method of heating that works in an unusual way – hydronics or water going through a PEX tubing in the floor. The water in the tubing radiates the heat into the structure. It’s an efficient and cost-effective way to heat a house.

Running hot water beneath the floor (hydronics) is becoming more popular in residential homes thanks to a flexible plastic tubing called “PEX” — a polyurethane, durable tubing that has a lifespan of more than 100 years. It serpentines underneath the floor and uses the whole floor as a heat-distribution system.

Comfort and efficiency are two reasons why new homeowners like radiant floor systems. Comfort, in fact, is the No. 1 advantage with its warm-feet, cool-head environment. And because the whole floor is used, it’s an extremely efficient system. The aesthetic quality is another reason some homeowners love this system. The heating system remains hidden beneath the floor; there are no vents or radiators in sight. This can be a huge advantage when it comes to interior design.

Three Types of Radiant Floors

There are three radiant flooring systems that can be applied to a home:

• Radiant Air Floors – Don’t hold large amount of heat, and for this reason they are used mainly in commercial buildings.
• Electric Radiant Floors – Do a great job at heating any kind of home, but they’re extremely expensive.
• Hydronic or Liquid Floors – These cost less and are, therefore, used more often in residential construction.

Radiant floor heating is a distribution center for the home by taking advantage of the floor and putting tubing throughout the whole floor, mild temperatures of water and concrete application. Beautiful tile, marble and slate floors are being utilized in homes, but they’re ice cold. With radiant floor heating, it’s possible to have a beautiful floor and barefoot comfort.

Using a hydronic floor system is a great way to heat a home, but it also can be used on a smaller scale, such as in a basement.

Note: Since a radiant floor system is different from a traditional centralized heating system, your builder will need to hire specialized contractors with experience in this area.

Installing a Radiant Floor System

There are two categories of installation for radiant floor heating — wet and dry. Wet installation is most commonly used in the ground floor.

Here are the five steps to the wet installation on a ground level:

• Excavate the area to be heated. This will be the sub-base.
• Add a layer of insulation to create a base over which the rest of the floor system will lay.
• Add rebar to the space. This will add strength to the floor system.
• Add plastic tubing, tying it to the rebar for support.
• Use concrete to create a slab foundation for the floor.

When installing a radiant floor system on the upper floors of a home, the most common method is called “dry installation,” which is a system that suspends the tubing underneath the subfloor, between the joists.

Before each cooling season, it is recommended that central air conditioners get a professional tune-up. This is the biggest step to preventing major malfunctions in an AC unit.

Probably the most important step that can be done by a homeowner is to clean or replace the air filter every month. Electrostatic filters are the best. Do not run the unit with the filter removed. Check the owner’s manual for filter cleaning procedure. Let a washed filter dry completely before reinstalling it.

Every month, especially during the summer months, remove any leaves or debris from outdoor condenser units.

Help keep the outdoor condenser fan running efficiently by cleaning the fan blades and the coils before each cooling season. (Always turn off the power before attempting anything other than superficial cleaning). Remove the fan grill and the fan blades. Gently brush off debris from the blades. Then uncover the condenser coils and gently brush the dirty side. Then hose water from inside the unit, using plastic bags to protect the motor and other components. Also check the base pan (under the unit) and remove any debris that has accumulated there as well.

If the condenser fan makes a clicking or grating noise it may indicate that the blades may be striking an obstruction. If a blade becomes bent, do not try to straighten the blade. A straightened blade may become unbalanced and can loosen the fan motor or hit the condenser coil. Replace a bent blade with a new blade. After replacing a blade, make sure the fan blades rotate freely and don’t wobble. If fan often becomes loose, apply a drop of thread-locking compound.

Keep vegetation at least 2 feet away from outdoor units on each side and above. Aim grass clippings away from the unit when mowing the lawn. During the fall, keep the fan grill free of leaves.

Lubricate the condenser fan motor once a year if it has oil ports. (They’re usually plugged with rubber or metal caps). Use non-detergent lightweight SAE 20 oil and add no more than 10 drops per port.

If possible, shade the outdoor compressor unit. Air in shaded space is typically 5 to 6 degrees cooler than the surrounding air. Proper shading can be up to 10 percent more efficient over a cooling season.

During the winter months, protect the condenser unit with a form-fitting cover. To avoid damaging the compressor, don’t operate the unit when it’s below 60 degrees F outside.

A dirty indoor evaporator coil will hinder the unit’s ability to cool the air moving through the unit. To clean the evaporator coil, remove the front panel of the air handler/ furnace to expose the coil. Ensure that the coil is dry. Use the soft brush attachment on the vacuum cleaner to gently remove any dust or debris from the coil. Check and make sure that coil fins are straight. If not, straighten them with a fin comb available from refrigeration supply dealers.

Warm indoor air contacting the evaporator coils will condense causing moisture to collect and drip. In most units, a plastic pipe carries the water outdoors or to a floor drain. Algae and bacteria growth can clog the pipe. When this happens, backed-up water can puddle, causing rust or other damage. To clean the evaporator drain, remove the plastic tape holding the trap to the pipe elbow. (It may be necessary to saw through the pipe at the elbow). Flush the trap with water from a hose, and then disinfect using 1 tbsp of chlorine bleach. Reattach the trap to the pipe with new tape.

Raise the temperature settings. Each degree of temperature can represent up to 9 percent savings in cooling costs.

Here are some good tips for saving energy and avoiding high heating bills:

• Before purchasing a furnace for your home, check its A.F.U.E. rating, which stands for the Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. Each furnace has this rating on it from the factory. The standard is about 80 percent, which measures how much heat goes into the home as opposed to going up the flue pipe. So if you have 80-percent efficient furnace, 80 percent of the heat generated in the heat exchanger is going into your home and 20 percent is going up the flue pipe and is not being used at all.
• If you purchase a heat pump, you’ll want to check its H.S.P.F. rating, which stands for Heating Seasonal Performance Factor. This rating works basically the same as the AFUE rating for gas furnaces. Based on a scale of 1 to 10 (with 10 being the best), a minimum efficiency heat pump will rate approximately 6.6, while high efficiency units will have a rating of 8.0 or higher.
• Change air filters for your heat pump or furnace on a regular basis. A dirty filter increases the air pressure drop in the system, which ultimately uses more energy or decreases the air flow to a point where the system isn’t working properly.
• Have your builder or a heating specialist check the heat ducts for leakage. An HVAC professional can repair any leaks or gaps that are found.
• Weatherize your home by weather stripping or caulking around doors and windows. This will help keep heat from your system inside the home.
• Add programmable thermostats to your central heating system. This will help save energy by not heating your home when you’re away.
• Keep obstructions away from heating vents. This will help promote better heat flow throughout the house.

And, it’s the perfect time to follow a few quick tips to help ensure you have a warm and cozy holiday season, and most importantly, keep your home warm! Here are a few quick tips to help get your home prepared for the deep, dark nights when old man Winter comes around:

• Fireplace chimney: Use a flashlight to look up into the chimney for a visual check and see if there are any obstructions. If you suspect a problem do not use your fireplace until it has been checked by an home service expert.
• Fireplace safety: Keep decorations, wrapping and any other flammables at least 6′ away from the front of the fireplace.
• Attic insulation: If you do not know whether or not you have enough attic insulation in your home, get an insulation survey from Cool Heat Mechanical Systems or another reputable energy-saving contractor.
• Air filters: Replace common 1″ air filters now and every month.
• Duct registers: Check that registers (room air vents) are open and not obstructed by furniture or room decor.
• Window sealing: Use a feather to determine where window leaks occur. Move the feather around the windows perimeter on a windy day, being sure to keep it several inches from the surface.
• Furnace flue: Visually check the condition of the furnace flue, this is the large ‘pipe’ usually at the top. Dangerous gases exit this flue. If there appear to be gaps or problems contact Cool Heat for a safety inspection.
• Furnace tune-up: Have a NATE (North American Technician Excellence) trained Cool Heat technician clean and Tune-up the furnace. This will help ensure continuous operation throughout the season.
• Thermostat program: Set or reset your thermostat to come on 2 hours before you wake up, and turn off 1 hour after your typical bed time.
• Thermostat replacement: Get a new programmable thermostat to help reduce energy. Cool Heat carries the best thermostats on the market; call us anytime to find out more.

We hope that these tips will help keep your home warm this winter. All of us at Cool Heat Mechanical Systems wish you a wonderful, warm and cozy holiday season!

Indicators of poor indoor air quality:

• “stuffiness”
• frequent head or chest colds
• mold or mildew
• a musty smell or lingering odors
• heavy condensation or frost of windows

One of our CoolHeat professionals can test, assess and remediate your indoor air quality problems. For more information, please call us anytime.

Health and Environmental effects of poor air quality:

• asthma
• rhinitis
• bacteria
• sinusitis
• allergic respiratory disease
• dust and dirt
• excessive mold and mildew
• smoke
• increased utility bills (decreased air flow)
• unpleasant fumes and odors

50% of illnesses (such as colds and flu, allergies and asthma) are caused or aggravated by mold, mildew, bacteria and fungi, according to the American College of Allergists.

Solutions/Benefits:

Air Cleaners/Purifiers
Air cleaners can improve your health by keeping your entire house cleaner, protect your furnishings and save you time and the aggravation of continuous dusting and cleaning. A whole-house cleaner can help provide relief from irritants – up to 40 times more efficiently than standard furnace filters. Prevents the build up of dust and dirt that can be damaging to your heating and cooling equipment decreasing the need for expensive maintenance or premature failure. Build up of pollutants on your heating and cooling equipment also reduces the efficiency by as much as 25%.

An air purifier whole-house air filtration system is the most effective air cleaning system available. It thoroughly cleans and filters out 99.98% of airborne allergens that pass through the system. It is up to 100 times more effective than a standard 1” filter. It will deliver cleaner air and more of it.

Filters
By switching out your filters once a month you can cut down on the amount of dust and pollutants in your air. Filters remove dust and other particles from the air such as pollen, bacteria, smoke, smog, pet dander, plant and mold spores. They also help to increase the energy efficiency and prolong the life of your heating and cooling system.

Moisture control
Excess moisture in the air causes air conditioning systems to work harder. This wastes energy and increases your utility bill. Reducing moisture will effectively and economically reduce mold, mildew and allergens. A humidifier/dehumidifier built into your heating and cooling system is the best long-term solution to controlling moisture in your home. The water supply is constant and it can be controlled by a humidistat mounted on your wall, properly regulating the humidity in your home. With the right amount of humidity, you’ll find that you can be comfortable at a lower thermostat setting. And that will increase your comfort as well as save you money on your energy bills.

Duct cleaning
A whole-house duct cleaning dislodges dirt and debris in the airflow systems followed by a thorough cleaning. This cleaning will kill germs and bacteria, remove dust in your home, improve the efficiency of your system, make your home smell clean and fresh and is also recommended by doctors and allergists.

UV Germicidal Lamps
With a UltraViolet (UV) Germicidal Lamp you will not just remove airborne contaminants, you will destroy them. Mold and bacteria can easily grow on air conditioning coils as a result of normal condensation that takes place during the cooling process. A UV Germicidal Lamp is designed to kill that mold and bacteria by breaking down its DNA. The elimination of mold and bacteria will reduce your family’s risk of allergic reactions and illnesses as well as get rid of foul odors. It also allows your home comfort system to run less often, for shorter periods of time and at peak efficiency. As a result, this will save you money on your utility bills.

With today’s rising uncertainty surrounding utility costs, homeowners nationwide are becoming more and more interested in finding the best, most economical solution for indoor heating and cooling.

Cool Heat specializes in creating customized home comfort systems tailored to your needs with a broad selection of residential heating and cooling products. Cool Heat can help you choose the best system for your home, including a Hybrid Heat dual fuel system designed to deliver maximum comfort and economy.

Hybrid Heat dual fuel systems deliver exceptional performance by using a heating source that provides its most energy-efficient comfort during moderate heating conditions. As the temperature drops outside, the system automatically switches to your second heating source when that becomes the most economical way to keep your family comfortable. View an interactive demo.

Heating & Cooling Comfort

Cool Heat’s ultimate Hybrid Heat dual fuel system includes a gas furnace with our heat pump to provide soothing, superior comfort during both heat pump and furnace operation. This powerful combination can deliver heated air temperatures that are warmer than most traditional heat pumps so air from your vents feels warmer to the touch.

Because a Cool Heat Hybrid Heat dual fuel system also provides cool, indoor comfort when it’s hot outside, this system becomes your total, year-round indoor comfort solution. And with the recent increase in the SEER rating (SEER = Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) of air conditioners and heat pumps, a Hybrid Heat dual fuel system could also save you money during the cooling season.

Controls

No matter which control best fits your needs, you can count on automatic control of your Hybrid Heat dual fuel system. Cool Heat will select a balance point that tells your control when it’s best to select electric heat and when it’s time to switch to furnace operation. As utility rates in your area change, this balance point can be easily adjusted by Cool Heat. To get the best efficiency from your system, we recommend taking advantage of the seven day programmability to select a comfort schedule custom-fit to your lifestyle.

Real-World Savings Examples

Based upon a 2,000 sq. ft. house in Denver, Colorado, our Hybrid Heat dual fuel system is estimated to save you approximately $772 annualy.

While homeowners can’t see the majority of indoor air contaminants, they certainly see the effects. These microscopic particles slowly stain walls, ceilings, furniture, drapes and carpets. Lack of humidity control can keep a home damp and sticky, while excessive dryness can crack woodwork and antiques, or create static electricity and dry skin. Particles attaching to your home’s interior have to be scrubbed, laundered or dry cleaned away at the expense of the homeowner’s time, money and effort.

But costly cleaning isn’t the only consequence of dirty, humid, or dry indoor air. It is estimated that one in ten people living in North America suffer from asthma or allergies, and pollen, mold spores and dust-mite debris are among the most troublesome triggers of such ailments. Likewise, bacteria and viruses that can be found in indoor air have the potential to cause and spread disease.

Every cubic foot of air breathed carries a mixture of millions of these tiny annoyances. In small concentrations, these particles and gases may cause discomfort in the home. In significant concentrations, they can cause sickness.

Surprisingly or not, 96.7% of North American homes have at least 1 of 6 common indoor air quality (IAQ) problems detailed below.

Controlling Indoor Air Pollution in Three Ways

Reduction

Filters or neutralizes particulates found in indoor air. Air Cleaners installed just ahead of the heating and cooling equipment remove a portion of airborne pollutants each time air is pulled into the return air ducts.

Dilution

Replaces a portion of the indoor air with fresh outdoor air. This process occurs naturally in all homes, but at different rates depending on the structure’s tightness. Opening windows is one way to increase the pace of air exchange, although it’s an energy-wasting solution. Energy-efficient ERV and HRV ventilation systems exchange indoor air for outdoor air while recovering most of the energy used to heat or cool the air being exhausted. Controlling fresh air entering the home allows it to be conditioned by an efficient Air Cleaner , Dehumidifier and UV Treatment System prior to passing through the home’s furnace or air conditioner.

Source Control

Involves eliminating air pollutants before they enter the home. For example, by not allowing people to smoke or have pets in the home, homeowners practice source control. Such examples are not always practical. Installing whole-house Humidifiers, Dehumidifiers and UV Treatment Systems help stop the problem before they start. By maintaining optimal relative humidity levels in the home with humidity control equipment, and sterilizing pathogens with UV Treatment Systems , homeowners deter such harmful contaminants as mold, mildew, bacteria and viruses from forming.

Indoor Air Quality Homeowner Checklist

• Are you exposed to indoor air pollutants such as mold, bacteria, pollen, animal dander or tobacco smoke?
• Do you have dry air?
• Do you have static cling and/or static electricity in the winter?
• Do you have woodwork, wood furnishings, artwork, wooden musical instruments or collectibles that need to be protected and preserved?
• Do you have window condensation when temperatures drop?
• Do you own pets?
• Do you have small children?
• Does the indoor air seem stale during winter months?

Quick Tips

Consider these simple strategies to improve your homes IAQ:

• Control pollution at the source. For example, keep windows closed during the prime ragweed season.
• Ventilate your home. Use exhaust fans when you cook or take a shower, and refresh your air with a Ventilation System.
• Filter the air with a whole-house Air Cleaner.
• Treat the air with an ultraviolet air treatment system.
• Maintain the correct relative humidity levels with a whole-house Humidifier and/or Dehumidifier.

The measurement for heating efficiency is AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency), which ranges from 80% to 95% for new systems. The higher the AFUE, the more efficiently the system performs, the greater your energy savings.

Airflow

The distribution or movement of air.

Air Handler/Coil Blower

The indoor part of an air conditioner or heat pump that moves cooled or heated air throughout the ductwork of your home. An air handler is usually a furnace or a blower coil.

Bioaerosols

Microscopic living organisms suspended in the air that grow and multiply in warm, humid places.

Btu

A British thermal unit is a unit of heat energy. One Btu is the amount of heat required to raise one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. The higher the Btu rating, the greater the heating capacity of the system.

Btuh

British thermal units per hour.

CAE

The Combined Annual Efficiency is a measure of the amount of heat produced for every dollar of fuel consumed for both home and water heating.

Carbon Monoxide

An odorless, colorless, tasteless, poisonous and flammable gas that is produced when carbon burns with insufficient air.

Central Air Conditioning System

System in which air is treated at a central location and distributed to and from rooms by one or more fans and a series of ducts.

CFM

Stands for Cubic Feet per Minute. This measurement indicates how many cubic feet of air pass by a stationary point in one minute. The higher the number, the more air is being moved through the ductwork by the system.

Compressor

The part of the outdoor air conditioner or heat pump that compresses and pumps refrigerant to meet household cooling requirements.

Condenser Coil

The outdoor portion of an air conditioner or heat pump that either releases or collects heat, depending on the time of the year.

Damper

A movable plate, located in the ductwork, that regulates airflow. Dampers are used to direct air to the areas that need it most. Typically used in a zoning application.

dB

A decibel is a unit used to measure the relative intensity of sound.

DOE

The Department of Energy is a federal agency responsible for setting industry efficiency standards and monitoring the consumption of energy sources.

Ductless Air Conditioner

See Mini-split System.

Ductwork

The method by which air is channeled from the furnace or the blower coil throughout your home.

Electronic Air Cleaner

An electronic device that filters out large particles and bioaerosols in indoor air.

ENERGY STAR®

An EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) designation attached to HVAC products that meet or exceed EPA guidelines for high-efficiency performance above the standard government minimums.

EPA

The Environmental Protection Agency develops and enforces federal environmental regulations. The EPA oversees the nationwide Energy Star® program.

Evaporator Coil

The part of the air conditioner or heat pump that is located inside the air handler or attached to the furnace. Its primary function is to absorb the heat from the air in your house.

FAQ

Stands for “frequently asked questions.”

Heat Exchanger

Located in the furnace, the heat exchanger transfers heat to the surrounding air, which is then pumped throughout the home.

Heat Pump

A heat pump is an HVAC unit that heats or cools by moving heat. During the winter, a heat pump draws heat from outdoor air and circulates it through your home’s air ducts. In the summer, it reverses the process and removes heat from your house and releases it outdoors.

Horizontal Flow

When an air handler or furnace is positioned on its side and circulates air in one end and out the other. Ideal for attic or crawl space installations.

HSPF

The Heating Seasonal Performance Factor is the heating efficiency rating for heat pumps. The higher the rating, the more efficient the heat pump. HSPF will be regulated in 2006 at 7.7.

Humidifier

An indoor air quality device that introduces moisture to heated air as it passes from the furnace into the ductwork for distribution throughout the home.

Humidistat

An automatic device used to maintain humidity at a fixed or adjustable set point.

HVAC

Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning.

Indoor Coil

See Evaporator Coil.

ISO 9000

A family of international standards for quality management and assurance.

MERV Rating

The MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) rating of a filter describes the size of the holes in the filter that allow air to pass through. The higher the MERV rating, the smaller the holes in the filter, the higher the efficiency.

Micron

A unit of measure equal to one millionth of a meter, or one thousandth of a millimeter.

Mini-split System

A ductless air conditioning system that mounts in a single room, used to cool individual areas, particularly if a Window Unit is not desired or no windows are present.

Odors/Chemicals

Air contaminants in the form of gases.

Outdoor Coil

See Condenser Coil.

Particles (Particulates)

Any substances measuring less than 100 microns in diameter. The EPA has found that small particles (less than 2.5 microns) are responsible for the health effects of greatest concern.

Programmable Thermostat

A thermostat with the ability to record different temperature/time settings for your heating and/or cooling equipment.

R410A Refrigerant

A chlorine-free refrigerant that meets the EPA’s newest, most stringent environmental guidelines.

Refrigerant

A chemical that produces a cooling effect while expanding or vaporizing. Most residential air conditioning units contain the standard R-22 refrigerant, or Freon.

Refrigerant Lines

Two copper lines that connect the outdoor air conditioner or heat pump to the indoor evaporator coil.

Scroll Compressor

A specially designed compressor that works in a circular motion, as opposed to up-and-down piston action.

SEER

The cooling performance of air conditioners and heat pumps is rated using the SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) system, which ranges from 13.00 to 20.00 for new systems. The higher the SEER, the better the efficiency, the greater the energy savings.

Single Package

A heating and cooling system contained in one outdoor unit.

Split System

An HVAC system in which some components are located inside the structure of the house and some are located outside. Split systems should be matched for optimal efficiency.

Thermidistat

Monitors temperature and humidity and adjusts heating or cooling system to maintain desired levels.

Thermostat

Usually found on an inside wall, this device operates as a control to regulate your heating and cooling equipment, allowing you to adjust your home comfort at the touch of a switch.

Ton

Unit of measurement for determining cooling capacity. One ton equals 12,000 Btuh.

Two-Stage Operation

Provides two levels of heating or cooling output for greater temperature control, energy efficiency and improved indoor air quality.

Upflow

When an air handler or furnace is installed in an upright position and circulates air through the side or bottom and out through the top. Typically used in basement, closet and attic installations.

Variable Speed Motor

A motor that automatically adjusts the flow of warm or cool air for ultimate comfort.

Ventilator (or Fresh Air Ventilator)

A system that exchanges stale, recirculated indoor air with fresh, filtered outside air.

Window Unit

An air conditioner designed to be placed in the window, used for cooling individual rooms.

Zoning

A method of partitioning a home into independently controlled comfort zones for enhanced comfort and efficiency.

Cool Heat Mechanical Systems will measure your home and ask questions about your family’s comfort needs. Do you have a ranch-style home or a compact two-story? Are there cathedral ceilings, an indoor spa or an exercise room? How well insulated and weather-proofed is your home? What kind of windows do you have? Answers to these and other questions will help us design a system that is right for you.

Should I cover my outdoor unit in the winter?

Covering the unit is not necessary. Air conditioners are manufactured to withstand all possible climate changes.

What do all those rating numbers mean to me?

The federal government requires all air conditioning and heating equipment to be rated as to efficiency. The higher the rating the more efficient the equipment. For cooling the rating is SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating); heat pump heating is HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor) and gas furnaces are rated with AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency).

What temperature should I set my thermostat at when I am not at home in the summer-winter?

It is recommended that you set your thermostat no higher than 80′ during unoccupied periods. When returning home the system will then be able to respond to a your desired comfort requirements. Asking your equipment to bring your home from 95′ to 72′ can cause problems requiring service. In winter no lower than 62′. Maintaining a reasonable temperature conserves energy.

How close to the outdoor unit should I plant flowers or shrubs?

Manufacturers agree that plants should not be closer than 18 inches. Air conditioners need to take in and exhaust air to operate efficiently. Lack of circulation can cause excessive temperatures and require service.

What about the refrigerant used in air conditioners today? Can I still buy it if I need it?

Refrigerant 22 used in most air conditioners today will be manufactured in the United States until 2010. Replacement refrigerants are now entering the market; there is no need to be concerned about the price or availability of R-22 at this time.

How often should I change my air filters?

The more the equipment runs the more often a filter needs changed. The recommended frequency is once a month. We suggest no less than every three months. Replace filters with the same size and type as the original filter. If your filter is not the disposable type, follow manufacturer instructions for cleaning.

Should I drain my hot water boiler at least once a year?

No, hot water boilers should not be drained, because when they are re-filled the dissolved oxygen in the water will cause oxidation and scale build-up on the hot surfaces of the boiler, in turn causing damage and inefficiencies. The air must be removed or it will stop the pumps from circulating water.

What kind of oil should I use in my boiler circulation pumps? How often?

Use only 20 weight non-detergent oil. DO NOT USE MOTOR OIL. Lubricate the motor bearings and bearing assemblies every 90 days. Do not over lubricate as this will damage motor mounts and cause excessive wear on couplings. Consult the pump manufacturer’s instructions for best results.

How often do I need service on my expansion tank?

A standard closed loop expansion tank requires draining at the beginning of each heating season. A diaphragm expansion tank requires no maintenance. Follow manufacturer’s instructions.

How often should I inspect my safety relief valve?

At least once a year, at the start-up of the heating season. Lift the relief valve test handle and allow water to escape for 5 seconds.

What maintenance does my water heater need?

At least annually test the safety valve and drain 5 gallons of water from the bottom drain valve.

Where should I mount a carbon monoxide detector?

For forced air systems mount the detector as close to the return air grills as possible. For hot water or steam boilers install in or close to the boiler room.